I am trying to debug a started service application. When I attach the
service via Tools->Attach to Process, the debugger starts, but appears
inactive - all of the debugger command are inactive, the breakpoints are
ignored, etc. What am I doing wrong?

Also, it does not appear possible, contrary to the documentation, to choose
build mode (Release or Debug) in 2005. I've added "Solution Configurations"
to the Standard toolbar, and Configuration Manager to the Build menu, but
both are grayed out. Am I correct in assuming that to use the debugger I

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You have made a RELEASE BUILD.

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It is possible. You have to enable it in advance build options. You
don't need it add it to the menu. After you enable it you will have it
in your menu multiple times now.